Surface Preparation:
Cover entire surface with 3.4 expanded metal lath, overlapping the joints using 1-1/2"- 2” nails.  Over an existing wood surface, nails should be six inches (6”) apart in every direction, with extra attention to being sure that nailing is through all existing studs .  Over-lap all joints and at all corners, and never leave a lath seam at a corner.  Overlap at least 6" on vertical seams, and 2" on horizontal seams.  Use tin snips to cut lath.  Less nailing may be used if staple hammer is used.  Over plasterboard or painted surface, nails should be kept 16” on center, penetrating the studs, and 6” apart.  KEEP LATH TIGHT.  

REMINDER: Waterproof paper should be used over an exterior wood surface before installing lath per local code.

Scratch Coat:
A sand and cement mortar mix will then be applied over the metal lath, as thin as possible, but making sure that the lath is completely covered and that the SURFACE IS LEVEL.  Scratch up the plastered surface while it is still wet, using a piece of wire, a brush or other material, so that the surface is not too slick or smooth.

Chalk Lines:
After the plastered surface has cured, strike a chalk line.  For a 2-1/2" brick veneer, strike lines every 6 ” horizontally for a 5/8” joint, or every 5-3/4" for a 3/8” joint.  For striking chalk lines for other sizes of brick veneer, use the appropriate formula for the height of the brick. 

Buttering Brick:
Using a trowel, apply approximately 1/2" thick coating of mortar to the back of the brick piece.

Setting Brick: 
Lay alternate courses of brick below each chalk line, keeping end joints plumb.  A slight movement back and forth creates a suction that will hold the brick in a permanent position.  Press onto wall surface firmly.  Sufficient mortar should be used on the back of the brick to create a slight excess that will be formed out at the edges of the brick.  A little practice will result in increased speed of the application of the brick.  Wait until the first rows of brick dry before laying the other "fill in" rows.  This will prevent accidentally moving the upper and lower bricks out of place.

Approximately half an hour later, when the mortar is no longer wet, push the mortar deeper into the joints, and at the same time, rake out any excess mortar using a rounded stick.  If it is found at this state that by raking out the joints, the mortar smears over the face of the brick, wait an additional half an hour or so until the mortar has set up further.  After the above procedure has been completed, wire brush any excess mortar from the face of the veneer, and clean up joints at the same time with the wire brush and a whiskbroom.

Grouting:
The brick veneer may be grouted on the same day if mortar has dried sufficiently to firmly adhere the veneer to the wall surface.  If the grouting is to be delayed until the following day, make sure that all joints are left clean of excess mortar, and that the surface of the brick is free from any splashed mortar.  Remove any excess mortar with a stiff wire brush.  In grouting, use a grouting bag.  Fill the bag half full, and roll the bag tightly, (forcing your knuckles into the side of the bag).  Then squeeze the bag with your other hand, forcing the mortar out of the bag and deeply into the joints.

MORTAR MIX:
1 part Portland cement
2 parts plaster sand
(1/2 part thinset optional)

GROUT MIX:
1 part Mason's cement
2 parts fine (plaster) sand or silica sand
(Mortar should be firmly rich with cement or else it will not come out of the nozzle of the bag properly.  If only water comes out of the nozzle, add more cement to your mix).